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Checkerboard method for concrete

c0ntractortim

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2025
Messages
8
I've been in construction for 15 years, and I keep seeing crews pour these long sidewalks in one continuous slab, and they always end up with a ton of cracks, even with the control joints.
I have this memory from my old country, where they would pour sidewalks in a checkerboard pattern.
They would do sections 1, 3, 5, and then come back later and pour sections 2, 4, 6, creating cold joints.
I haven't seen a single example of this since. Has anyone else ever seen this done?

I'm curious, is the checkerboard method more expensive or time consuming than a continuous pour?
 
I've been in construction for 15 years, and I keep seeing crews pour these long sidewalks in one continuous slab, and they always end up with a ton of cracks, even with the control joints.
I have this memory from my old country, where they would pour sidewalks in a checkerboard pattern.
They would do sections 1, 3, 5, and then come back later and pour sections 2, 4, 6, creating cold joints.
I haven't seen a single example of this since. Has anyone else ever seen this done?

I'm curious, is the checkerboard method more expensive or time consuming than a continuous pour?
Most customers here want things done fast instead of done right. Crews usually do one continuous pour to get it done since that's what they know.
 
I've been in construction for 15 years, and I keep seeing crews pour these long sidewalks in one continuous slab, and they always end up with a ton of cracks, even with the control joints.
I have this memory from my old country, where they would pour sidewalks in a checkerboard pattern.
They would do sections 1, 3, 5, and then come back later and pour sections 2, 4, 6, creating cold joints.
I haven't seen a single example of this since. Has anyone else ever seen this done?

I'm curious, is the checkerboard method more expensive or time consuming than a continuous pour?
hi tim, the checkerboard or skip poured method is a well known technique here, especially for controlling cracking.
The reason you don't see it anymore is purely about efficiency and cost. It's a much slower process because you have to wait for the first sections to cure enough to support the formwork for the new sections, which means a second mobilization of the crew and equipment.
A continuous pour with saw cut or tooled control joints is simply faster and cheaper from a labor standpoint. The tradeoff is often more cracking, just as you've noticed
 
I've been in construction for 15 years, and I keep seeing crews pour these long sidewalks in one continuous slab, and they always end up with a ton of cracks, even with the control joints.
I have this memory from my old country, where they would pour sidewalks in a checkerboard pattern.
They would do sections 1, 3, 5, and then come back later and pour sections 2, 4, 6, creating cold joints.
I haven't seen a single example of this since. Has anyone else ever seen this done?

I'm curious, is the checkerboard method more expensive or time consuming than a continuous pour?
I'd agree that the skip pour or checkerboard method is a classic and excellent for crack control! But I have to agree with the others here that not a lot are practicing that due to speed and labor costs. It's a bit unfortunate that the continuous pour has become the industry standard.
 
hi tim, the checkerboard or skip poured method is a well known technique here, especially for controlling cracking.
The reason you don't see it anymore is purely about efficiency and cost. It's a much slower process because you have to wait for the first sections to cure enough to support the formwork for the new sections, which means a second mobilization of the crew and equipment.
A continuous pour with saw cut or tooled control joints is simply faster and cheaper from a labor standpoint. The tradeoff is often more cracking, just as you've noticed
Thanks for explaining that. I’m helping my uncle redo his old barn floor and we’ve been debating whether to go with a checkerboard pour or just do it all at once. If we go continuous, how close should the control joints be spaced to keep cracking down, especially in a humid climate?
 
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